The Viognier grape has existed since Christ’s time; however, its popularity dwindled over the years to almost extinction. In 1965, less than twenty acres of Viognier remained on the planet!
At some point in the mid-nineteen sixties, its value as a blending grape emerged, using it to add perfume aromas to reds like Syrah and an aromatic lift and body to whites such as Marsanne or Roussanne. Little by little, through the ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s, plantings increased until the year two-thousand, when two hundred fifty acres existed in Condrieu.
But it was almost gone forever!
Rangers to the rescue.
Meanwhile, across the Atlantic in the 1980s, a group of California wine people formed a not-for-profit organization called The Rhone Rangers. The group’s charter was promoting, marketing, and growing the twenty-two Rhone grapes, Viognier included. Subsequently, Viognier plantings sprang up in California, Australia, South America, Texas, and the USA’s East Coast.    Â
Panoramic view of Condrieu.
Virginia embraces Viognier.
No one could have predicted that a forgotten Northern Rhone grape would find fame in the US, but here we are. Since its first plantings in Virginia by Horton Vineyards of Orange County in 1989, it has earned acclaim and, in 2011, was named Virginia’s signature white grape by the Virginia Wine Board! When Virginians visit local wineries, they know, seek out, and expect good quality Viogniers. FYI, 2017 was a banner year for Virginia Viogniers and an excellent year for Virginia wines overall.
The other white grape.
Compared to Chardonnay, Viognier has more natural aromatics and minerality. The style I like is full-bodied, rich, and weighty with an attractive oily texture, low in acid, and with only a gentle touch of neutral oak, aging to add balance. The bouquet’s perfume aroma suggests sweetness, although it is typically made in a dry style with no residual sugar (RS). Floral and fruit notes such as peaches, pears, dried fruit, violets, and white flowers are on the nose. More exotic notes like anise, star fruit, and melons occur with Viogniers made from ripe sun-drenched grapes.
Pronounced vee-own-yay.
Note what winemaker Chris Ritzcovan of Jefferson Vineyards, Monticello AVA, Virginia, says: “I think Virginia produces Viognier unlike anywhere else. We have this perfect harmony between ripeness, alcohol content, full-body, and these wonderful notes of tropical flavors, apricot, and peach.” cbs19news Wine Wed.
I prefer Viognier to Chardonnay because it has a distinct natural profile; maybe that’s why it’s the white wine for red wine drinkers.