How to Demystify Bordeaux AOCs

You’ll find many Bordeaux on lists of the world’s top-rated wines. The Romans introduced wine production in this French region in the mid-first century AD. And it has remained continuously under the vine ever since. It was not always as famous as it would become. But beginning in the 1200s, after King Henry II of England’s marriage to the rich and powerful Eleanor, Duchess of Aquitaine, Bordeaux wine began to cross the Channel en masse. At the time, Elanor’s family ruled Aquitaine, the entire southwest region of modern France. As a result, “Claret,” as red Bordeaux was (and still is) called, became as renowned as tea would someday be in England!

The Bordeaux region straddles the 45th parallel. If followed west, it eventually passes through the colder upper U.S. states. However, its proximity to the Atlantic gives it a maritime climate strongly influenced by an ocean, high rainfall, and mild temperatures. The Gulf Stream’s warming effect also influences it. The human-made Landes Forest further tempers the climate on its southwestern flank.

Vineyards surround Bordeaux, situated on the western side of the Garonne River and known as the Left Bank. Near the city, the Dordogne River joins the Garonne forming the Gironde estuary, a long wide body of water that flows into the Bay of Biscay (North Atlantic Ocean). North and east of the Dordogne River lie the Right Bank, and between the two rivers is the triangular-shaped Entre-Deux-Mers, i.e., “between two tides.”

There are three tiers of wine in France, Vin de Table, Vin de Pays, and AOC; with the European Union now in charge, these have new designations, Vin, IGP, and AOP, respectively. So first, Vin de Table (Vin) is made from grapes anywhere in France. The next tier-up in quality is Vin de Pays (IGP). Grapes are sourced from a delimited region; this tier makes up over one-third of all wine in France. Lastly, the highest level of quality, AOC (AOP), or Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, where many regulations apply to all aspects of wine production. This article focuses on AOC wines, which in English is the “name of controlled origin.” You may see this shortened to AC, Appellation Contrôlée, or AOP on wine labels.

Bordeaux Wine Region by Domenico-de-ga.

To qualify as an AOC, strict regulations must be followed and verified. Regulations apply where the grapes are grown, where the wine is produced, grape variety, production methods, minimum alcohol levels, max levels of grape yields per acre, vine age, and minimum planting densities for vines. Rules also apply for harvesting, vinification techniques, and cellar location.

Five red grapes are used in Bordeaux blends, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, and Malbec. Two out of the five must be used, and it is up to the winemaker’s discretion as they face a given year’s conditions. For still whites, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle can be used differently depending on style. It’s the opposite with sweet wines, Sémillon is principal, with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc for acidity, and Muscadelle adds floral, fruity notes when desired. 

There are seven regional AOCs that cover the entire territory of Bordeaux. The regional AOCs combined comprise 55% of Bordeaux wine production and represent entry-level-quality AOC Bordeaux wines of excellent value. These wines are mainly from the Entre-Deux-Mers and the Right Bank and are high-quality everyday drinking wines, not the renowned, prestigious, high-priced, aging wines Bordeaux is known for.  

The 7 Regional AOCs are Bordeaux Rouge for red wine; Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge with higher quality standards for red wine; Bordeaux Clairet for light red wine, between red and rosé; Bordeaux Rosé for pale pink to cranberry colored wine; Bordeaux Blanc for dry white wine; Bordeaux Supérieur Blanc for higher quality white wine and Crémant de Bordeaux for sparkling wine made in the méthode traditionnelle. On wine labels, you will see these AOCs expressed as “Appellation Bordeaux Rouge Contrôlée” for a red orAppellation Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge Contrôlée” for the higher quality red Bordeaux Superior.       

Bordeaux type Chateau.

From there, the Bordeaux region is subdivided into AOCs in one of three general areas:  The Left Bank, the Right Bank (aka Libournais), and the Entre-Deux-Mers.

Right Bank – the right bank produces Merlot blends that range from good to great. Two notable AOCs making great wine are Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. To highlight one area, the wines of Saint-Émilion rival the Left Bank in quality, price, and ability to age well. These are typically blends of 60/30/10% Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. They are lush, round, and smooth, lower in tannins, show lovely black fruit, and be consumed earlier than tannic Left Bank wines if desired. You’ll find the quality statement on bottles expressed as such: “Appellation Saint-Émilion Contrôlée.”

Left Bank – Médoc and Graves AOCs make up the Left Bank and produce some of the world’s finest wines. The most renowned Chateau and Bordeaux wines are in the Médoc AOC. Its reds are Cabernet Sauvignon heavy blends that age very well, are higher in tannin and alcohol, and have complex flavors and aromas. Médoc does not have an AOC level for whites. The best dry whites come from the Left Bank in the Pessac-Léognan AOC nested inside the Graves AOC. These wines are typically high in acidity and crisp, some with a subtle oak influence. Left Bank sweet white wines are world-famous and based on the Sémillon grape with a small amount of Sauvignon Blanc blended in. The notable ones are from the Sauternes AOC; they’re viscus, sweet, and made from noble-rot grapes that provide distinct, irresistible honey notes.

Entre-Deux-Mers has various appellations, producing styles ranging from sweet whites made from noble-rot grapes to dry red table wines to whites. The Entre-Deux-Mers AOC itself covers the whites of AOC quality. These are good value wines without the price tag you think of with Bordeaux wine.  

Classifications.

The French love further classifying their wine beyond the Vin, Vin de Pays, and AOC tiers. Bordeaux has multiple classifications of its Chateau and wine; a summary follows. You will find these classifications listed on their wine labels.

Médoc Classifications.

The Bordeaux Classification of 1855 (or Cru Classé).

  • Included red and sweet wines only.
  • Reds – 61 chateaux were ranked, ranks are from 1st-5th, and called Crus or Growths.
    • For example, a Chateau is ranked as a “First Growth” or “Premier Cru.”
  • Sweet – 27 chateaus were ranked, the same ranking scheme as reds.
    • One Chateau, d’Yquem, was ranked as a “Superior First Growth.”

Cru Bourgeois classification.

  • Conducted in 1932 for Médoc estates excluded from the 1855 Classification of Bordeaux.
  • Cru Bourgeois is a level below Cru Classé, but still high quality.
  • Three levels of quality in this classification are Cru Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel.

Cru Artisan classification.

  • Used for small, family-owned estates in the Médoc.
  • Officially recognized by the EU in 1994.

Graves classification.  

  • Sixteen chateaus were classified beginning in 1953, including reds and whites.
  • One level of classification, Cru Classé.
  • Note: 1 chateau was included in the Bordeaux Classification of 1855, Chateau Haut-Brion.

Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé Classification.

  • Classification of Chateaux.
  • The only classification for the Right Bank.
  • Re-ranked every ten years starting in 1954.
  • The highest rank is “Premier Grand Cru Classé (A and B),” and the second is “Grand Cru Classé.”