How to Untangle Burgundy 2

It is essential to learn about Burgundy’s geography and the association of wine with its region to fully understand it.

The land.

The major regions of Burgundy are located in the valleys and slopes west of the Saône River, and from north to south, they are the Côte d’Or, Côte Chalonnaise, and Maconnais.

Chablis is part of Burgundy but sits northwest of the other regions, close to the Champagne region, and will not be discussed in this article.    

The Côte d’Or.

It is made up of two major subregions, Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune; together, they contain thirty-two of the thirty-three Grand Cru vineyards producing the best and most expensive wines. Premier Cru, village, and regional-level wines are also produced here. The wines can be complex and improve with proper aging in the bottle, so as the producer recommends, put some away to drink later.            

Côte de Nuits.

This region is known as the spiritual home of Pinot Noir and contains 24 Grand Cru vineyards. Named for the village of Nuits-Saint-Georges, it sits on a narrow limestone ridge that creates the wine’s character. The Pinot Noir produced here ranges from rare, expensive, world-famous wines to affordable regional wines. I suggest starting your red Burgundy journey with a well-made wine of the Premier Cru (the label will read “1er Cru” or “Premier Cru”) level of quality. Yes, you will pay more, but your frame of reference and pallet may need to adjust to Pinot Noir. They are very different from most red wines and can seem underwhelming if your frame of reference has been set on Bordeaux or Malbec.  

Côte de Beaune.

Seven of its eight Grand Cru vineyards are dedicated to Chardonnay and only one to Pinot Noir. Even though it is known for exquisite whites, half of its production is red. The same suggestion holds for Chardonnays. Try a Premier Cru first, get accustomed to its character, and then try some well-recommended village-level wines, or open your wallet wide and go for a Grand Cru.           

Flavor profiles.

Pinot Noir flavors cover a wide range and can vary depending on quality. Red fruit is present in baked cherries, plums, or dried cranberries. Earth notes like wet earth, mushrooms, farmland, and autumn leaves are common. Woody cedar boxes, cigar tobacco, chocolate, saddle leather, floral notes of roses, and vanilla can be found. Pinots are deceptive in that they are light-bodied wines with medium tannin, but their sensual, earthy, multilayered aromas quickly dispel any allusion to feebleness.

The chardonnay here is acidic, with notes of apples, a lemon-ish flavor, tart tropical fruit, and crushed hazelnuts. Normally, these are aged in French oak, so vanilla and creaminess come through on the palate.

Côte Chalonnaise.

South of the Côte d’Or, this region produces Premier Cru, no Grand Cru, and large amounts of the village and regional wine. The Chardonnay here is usually un-oaked with notes of lemon, apricot, and apple with zippy acidity. The wine is more affordable, and you can search for great values, but proceed with caution since quality can vary widely from year to year and by the producer. One interesting note: the Aligoté grape is used here to produce an exciting and relatively unknown white wine that is vibrant, light gold-colored, well-balanced, and fruity, with apple, lemon, and floral notes—a must-try for wine treasure seekers.

Maconnais.

Chardonnay is the grape of choice here in the southernmost region of Burgundy, and it’s produced in large quantities. This region has no Premier or Grand Crus vineyards; the highest quality levels are the Macon Superior or Macon Village wines. Well-known Pouilly-Fuissé is in this region, and their wines can be exceptional, but again, proceed with caution; some are not well made and are overpriced.