Blight.
Although Spanish wine-making dates back to the first century, significant changes occurred in the late 1800s when most of Europe’s vineyards were ruined by Phylloxera. This insect infestation caused French winemakers to flee to Spain ahead of the blight, bringing advanced wine-making techniques. French influence is still evident in the Rioja blends of indigenous grapes based on Bordeaux blends. The French also introduced small production oak barrels called barriques. These are the typical 59-gallon barrels seen today and are practical in that they are easily handled by one cellar hand and transfer much oak flavor to the wine.
Rioja wine region.
Some of Spain’s best wines are produced closer to Bordeaux, France, than in the Mediterranean Sea in the north-central provinces of La Rioja and Navara. The region’s climate is moderated by warm air traveling up the Ebro River valley as it flows east to the Mediterranean. The Rioja wine region comprises three subregions: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Oriental. The higher elevation and cooler Alta and Alavesa subregions produce medium-body wines of higher quality, while the flatter, warmer Oriental produces bigger, more alcoholic wines.
Tempranillo.
It is the prominent grape of Rioja and produces moderate acidity, spice, strawberry, tobacco, and an earthy-chalky aroma. Most Tempranillos are barrel-aged using American oak, which adds the signature spice and vanilla.
Supporting cast.
Other Spanish grapes contribute to the Rioja blends. Garnacha Tinta is grown extensively in the Rioja Oriental subregion and contributes body, spice, and berry flavors. Mazuelo (aka Cariñena) adds deep color, and Graciano brings perfume notes to the blends.
Food and Rioja.
The flavor profiles of Rioja change with the two to five years of aging the wine gets before release. The terms Joven, Crianza, Reserva, or Gran Reserva will be included on top-quality Riojas labels. When serving young Joven or Crianza wines, look to the endless possibilities of pairings with Spanish tapas. Middle-aged Reserva and older Gran Reserva pair with Spanish cuisines such as roast pork, lamb, chorizo, and aged cheeses.
Battle stations!
Every June in the La Rioja town of Haro, there is a huge battle where no one gets hurt, and everyone gets wet. The traditional outfit is white on white with a red necktie, but the warriors are all purple by the battle’s end. “The Batalla Del Vino” commemorates a 10th-century land dispute between Haro and a neighboring village. Now, I have a plus-one addition to the bucket list.
Traditional vs. Modern.
There is tension between new and old-world styles in many parts of Europe’s wine-making world. The pressure of competition from Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and The Americas is partly answered by creating new styles.
Traditional.
Tempranillo-based blends are aged in American oak barrels for long periods, creating a tannic wine that can last for decades. Traditionally, Riojas are earthy, with mineral notes and cut leather aromas. However, they can also be complex and elegant Bordeaux-style wines, inheriting sweet vanilla and spice notes from aging in oak.
Modern Riojas.
International varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon are part of their blends, or they are made from a single grape type or a single vineyard’s grapes are used. These modern blends are aged less, have pronounced fresh fruit flavors, and are intended to be enjoyed much younger.
